Kunzum: Ladakh - The Buddhist Festivals

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Ladakh, located in the high altitude Himalayas in northern India, is the sacred land of Buddhists. Staying isolated from the rest of the world for a good part of the year has enabled Ladakhis to preserve and practice their religion like they have for centuries. And it shows in the Buddhist festivals, annual events at most monasteries. Enjoy more interactive e-books by Kunzum at http://kunzum.com/books.

Transcript of Kunzum: Ladakh - The Buddhist Festivals

Page 1: Kunzum: Ladakh - The Buddhist Festivals

LADAKH

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Ladakh, located in the high altitude Himalayas in northern India, is the sacred land of Buddhists. Staying isolated from the rest of the world for a good part of the yyear has enabled Ladakhis to preserve and practice their religion like they have for centuries. And it shows in the Buddhist festivals, annual events at most monasteries.

THE BUDDHIST FESTIVALSLADAKH

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THE BUDDHIST FESTIVALS

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THE BUDDHIST FESTIVALS

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The biggest and most popular is the one at the Hemis Monastery; it helps that it falls in the peak tourist season of June - July. Crowds can be madding here, and it is advisable one reaches very early to secure a spot. No such problem at other monasteries though - not too many tourists go there as they are either off their circuit, or the dates fall during the non-summers months when it can get extremely cold.

These festivals are essentially different kinds of masked dances, each with These festivals are essentially different kinds of masked dances, each with a theme or a prayer. The dances have evolved into vibrant events, with costumes made of brocade and silk, in bright golds, reds, blues and greens. Masks of a clay-cotton mix are painted in natural colours and polished in gold and silver.

Trumpets, cymbals, drums, bells and flageolets provide the accompanying music. Dancers flourish sacred items like daggers, spears, bells, vajras, skulls and damrus. Decades or sometimes even centuries old, these are brought and damrus. Decades or sometimes even centuries old, these are brought out for special events only.

The origins of these dances go back to the 9th century when the rise of Buddhism at the expense of the Bon religion provoked Langdarma, Tibet’s Bon king, into persecuting Buddhists. Monks were disrobed and monasteries dismantled. In frustration, the powerful monk Palji Dorge came dancing to Lhasa, dressed in a wide-brimmed black hat, high boots and brocade costume, and pierced the king’s heart with an arrow. This was the costume, and pierced the king’s heart with an arrow. This was the prototypical cham, now popular as the Buddhist masked dance, though some trace it back to the Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha) era. Cham was patronised by Guru Padmasambhava, when he visited the court of Tibetan king Trisong Deutsen in the 8th century.

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The Hemis Festival opens with an act by 13 dancers dressed like Palji Dorge. Supposedly endowed with spiritual powers, they symbolically ward off any evil spirits that might hinder evil spirits that might hinder the festival.

While at the events, shop for curios and handicrafts. Relish local delicacies at stalls set up to raise funds for the monasteries. At some surprise stalls, you can even play stalls, you can even play games of skill and chance, with money at stake!

A bored lama boy at the

Hemis Festival. The start was delayed due to rain

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WHAT IT TAKES TO BE A YOUNG LAMA

What do you do with a seven-year-old lama crying for his mama? Pacify him with a sweet. Or just give him a whack if that does not work.

Jigmet, a 22Jigmet, a 22-year-old lama at Hemis, guffawed loudly when he shared this gompa 'secret' with me. I got a more philosophical answer from His Holiness the XII Gyalwang Drukpa though. He believes in planning for the long term and doing what's good for the person. Because lfor the person. Because love's bonds are stronger than iron chains.

The Ladakhi tradition of sending the family's youngest son to join a monastery is dwindling but one still meets lamas as young as four years. The really young ones may not have a choice but teenagers and older boys often join willingly. And though they have the option to leave the order, most stay on for life.

Not that they must renounce the world completelNot that they must renounce the world completely. They can visit their families, who treat them not as sons but as lamas. Jimet, a 17-year-old student at Choglamsar, has been on an all-India educational trip funded by the government. Lamas can listen to music, watch movies, own cellphones and cameras, dine out—but always in their robes. It's all fine as long as they don't obsess with worldly pleasures.

They can also crack jokes about whacking little boys!

A pensive lama boy

at Hemis Monastery

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Lamas (Buddhist monks) of all

ages come from all over to attend

festivals and participate in the

religious ceremonies.

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Lamas (Buddhist monks)

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Lamas (Buddhist monks)

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There cannot be any dances,

even religious masked ones,

without music. The monks here

are playing Buddhist chants on

their traditional instruments.

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Buddhist Nuns at the Hemis Festival. They sure can laugh out loud, but what are some of them

smoking?

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THE LAMA'S WHIP COMES WITH A BLESSING

A child may not always need the rod but a crowd often will. Even in Hemis.

The audience at the Hemis Festival overwhelms the monastery's capacity. Visitors spill over, even into the centinto the central courtyard that is reserved for masked dances. Keeping people within the roped enclosure is tough, as the throng bursts at the seams, forcing the usually non-violent lamas to brandish the whip. Literally. It works, but only up to a point. It would be more effective if the whip were struck hard enough. But you don't expect a Buddhist to show force, do Buddhist to show force, do you? No one minds being ‘struck’ though - it is seen as a blessing when a representative of their Gods makes physical contact in any way.

The monastery’s official disciplinarian tries to control crowds with his whip

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A young lama using a whip to clear the way for the masked dancers. Seems the child wields the rod too,

aat times

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WHEN FAITH MAKES IT ALL POSSIBLEFaith can move mountains, they say. And if you're a disciple of His Holiness the Twelfth Gyalwang Drukpa, you'll probably scale mountains, following him on an overwhelmingly arduous 400-km, six-week ‘padyatra on the world's rooftop’ from Manali to Hemis in 2009. The goal: promote the values of the lineage and the causes of environment, education, health and culture. The end of the walk coincided with the date of the annual festival at Hemis.

The 600 odd participants, who came from all over the globe, walked over passes like Shikun La, Hanamur La, Singge La, KKongskil La and Flying Fox, at altitudes touching 5,182 metres (17,000 feet). They would walk up to 12 hours every day in cold, oxygen-deprived conditions. They had to set off early, before sun thawed snow and make it impossible for their 300 horses (carrying supplies) to trot on. Despite any exhaustion, everyone had to pitch their own tents. On one occasion, some had to sleep in the open in sub-zero temperatures for four nights - the pack horses had got left behind.

What made them go on? A follower said, "I have never, ever trekked. Only faith made me go through with it."

WWould you like to join the Drukpas when they undertake their next padyatra? You would only be welcomed to be a part of it.

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Looking out fo

r His Holiness

the Twelfth G

yalwang

Drukpa to rea

ch Hemis

Monastery at

the end of Hi

s

six-week long

‘padyatra’

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THE TRANCE OF THE ORACLES OF MATHOI went looking for the famed oracles of Matho gompa. I was disappointed to learn that they appear only during the annual NagNagrang Festival in February or March.

The oracles are two lamas from Matho, possessed by the spirits of the brothers Rongtsan Kar and Mar, but only during the festival. Known for their protectiprotective powers, these brothers came from Tibet with Matho's founder, Dorje Palzang.

In a trance, they perform stunning acts. They run along walls and rooftops without falling off. They cut their mouths and hands with sharp knives, bleeding profusely and yet their wounds heal in a day. They walk about in masks without eyeholes, seeing through the angry eyes of deities painted on their torsos.

People flock to the oracles for advice, for predictions. When the oracles fling roasted barley in the courtyard, the amount falling in each direction projects how the crops there would fare. If they don matted red haiamount falling in each direction projects how the crops there would fare. If they don matted red hair, people gear up for calamity. On the festival's seventh and final day, they visit the shrine of Rongtsan Kar and Mar, push their heads into the abundant juniper bushes and snap out of their trance till the following year.

Do they suffer identity crises for the rest of the year?

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* Most festivals have no restrictions on anyone attending the same. Some may charge a nominal fee. Certain prayer sessions are open to monks and / or nuns only.

* * You are advised to dress appropriately as monasteries are places of worship.

* Pack some food and water - you may not get options to your liking.

* Weather changes dramatically in Ladakh at a short notice - alalways carry extra warm clothing and rain / snow protection.

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SCHEDULEThe dates of festivals in monasteries in Ladakh change every year, and you are advised to make your travel plans after confirming the same. Given below is the calendar from 2011 - 2014 but do double check before you head out.

Read the schedule as: Name of Festival / Monastery: Dates in 2011 / Dates in 2012 / Dates in 2013 / Dates in 2014. NA denotes dates not available.

1. Spituk Gustor: Jan 31 – Feb 1 / Jan 21 - 22 / Jan 9 - 10 / Jan 28 - 292. Stongde Gustor: July 18 – 19 / July 06 – 07 / June 26 – 27 / NA2. Stongde Gustor: July 18 – 19 / July 06 – 07 / June 26 – 27 / NA3. Dosmocheyleh: Mar 02 – 03 / Feb 19 – 20 / Feb 08 – 09 / NA4. Likir & Diskit: Mar 02 – 03 / Feb 19 – 20 / Feb 08 – 09 / Feb 27 - 285. Stok Seschu: Mar 14 – 15 / Feb 02 – 03 / Feb 19 – 20 / Mar 10 - 116. Matho Nagrang: Mar 18 – 19 / Feb 07 – 08 / Feb 24 – 25 / Mar 15 - 167. Sindhu Darshan: Jun 12 – 14 / Jun 12 – 14 / Jun 12 – 14 / Jun 12 - 148. Saka Dawa: Jun 15 / May 04 / May 25 / June 139. Hemis Tseschu: Jul 10 – 11 / Jun 29 – 30 / Jun 18 – 19 / Jul 07 - 089. Hemis Tseschu: Jul 10 – 11 / Jun 29 – 30 / Jun 18 – 19 / Jul 07 - 0810. Yuru Kabgyad: Jun 28 – 29 / Jun 16 – 17 / Jun 05 – 06 / NA11. Karsha Gustor: Jul 27 – 28 / Jul 15 – 16 / Jul 06 – 07 / Jul 23 - 2412. Phiyang Tserup: July 28 – 29 / Jul 16 – 17 / Jul 06 – 07 / Jul 24 - 2513. Korzok Gustor: Aug 02 – 03 / Jul 22 – 23 / Jul 11 – 12 / Jul 30 - 2114. Dakthok (Takthok) Tsechu: Aug 08 – 09 / Jul 28 – 29 / Jul 18 – 19 / Aug 06 - 0715. Sani Naro Nasjal: Aug 12 – 13 / Aug 01 – 02 / Jul 21 – 22 / Aug 09 - 1016. Shanchukul Gustor: Jul 17 – 18 / Jul 05 -06 / Jun 25 – 26 / NA16. Shanchukul Gustor: Jul 17 – 18 / Jul 05 -06 / Jun 25 – 26 / NA17. Ladakh Festival: Sep 1 – 15 / Sep 1 – 15 / Sep 1 – 15 / Sep 1 - 1518. Thiksey Gustor: Nov 13 – 14 /Nov 01 – 02 / Nov 20 – 21 / Nov 09 - 1019. Chemde Angchok: Nov 23 – 24 / Nov 11 – 12 / Nov 30 – 1 Dec / Nov 20 - 2120. Galdan Namchot: Dec 20 / Dec 08 / Dec 27 / Dec 1621. Losar: Dec 25 / Dec 14 / Jan 02 / Dec 22

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LadakhThe Buddhist Festivals

By

Ajay JainE-Edition Version: 1.0 (July 2012)Kunzum Catalog Code: KE 20001

This e-edition first published in 2012 by Kunzum, the travel imprint of TCP Media Pvt. Ltd. This e-edition first published in 2012 by Kunzum, the travel imprint of TCP Media Pvt. Ltd. All Text and Photographs Copyright © 2012 by Ajay Jain

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